A perm is set by applying an oxidizing agent called a neutralizer. Most people are unaware that the neutralizer’s chemicals are much more potent than those in the softening formula.

There’s a tendency to assume the longer it is left on, the better, however, 90% of the process is set in 15 minutes. Any longer will lead to further damage to the hair.  

The effects of setting a perm lasts 10 minutes, so generally, it is processed twice within 15 minutes. In most cases, each process is to be done in 7 minutes. Once the first process is applied a timer is set for 7 minutes, once the timer goes off, the second process is applied, another 7 minutes on the timer, and then the rods are removed. Here, applying the second process and removing the rods can take an additional 10 minutes. Furthermore, if you consider the time it takes to get to the shampoo station and the wait time for the water to warm, the total time has now exceeded 30 minutes.  Exceeding 15 minutes is damaging, which goes to show how many stylists are adding unnecessary stress to the hair. 

In Tailored Hair, the 15-minute window starts from the moment the softening agent is fully applied and ends once the hair is being washed out with warm water. Generally, once the clock starts ticking, at the 5 to 7 minute mark the second process is applied. As soon as the application is complete, we begin removing the rods. Once the rods are removed, we take some of the remaining time to increase the surface area exposed to air and allow it to oxidize. A few moments before the 15 minutes are up, we will move to the shampoo station, and by the time the water is warm, it will be right at 15 minutes. This allows for minimal damage. 

Should you run into issues where the perm did not set, or it is too loose, consider that the settings were incorrect.

If preparation, cutting techniques, and chemical application are done efficiently and without waste, it will definitely save you time and reduce stress on both the client and their hair.