Vol.40 Tailored Hair by Aki : Color Edition – How to choose the right color
06.15.2024

- According to Skin Tone
When deciding on hair color, it’s important to select a color that complements the client’s skin tone. Generally, skin tones are classified as follows.
- Cool Tone: Skin with pink of blue undertones. Suitable colors include ash, platinum blonde, and cool brown.
- Warm Tone: Skin with yellow or golden undertones. Suitable colors include golden brown, caramel, and warm red.
- Neutral Tone: A balance between cool and warm. Most colors suit this skin tone, allowing for the widest range of choices.
How to Determine Skin Tone
Cool vs. Warm Tone Test
- Vein Test:
- Look at the veins on the inner side of your wrist under natural light.
- If the veins appear blue: Cool Tone.
- If the veins appear green: Warm Tone.
- Jewelry Test:
- Examine which type of jewelry suits your skin better, gold or silver.
- If gold suits you better: Warm Tone.
- If silver suits you better: Cool Tone
- Paper Test:
- Hold a plain white sheet of paper near your face and observe your skin tone.
- If your skin looks yellowish next to the paper: Warm Tone.
- If your skin looks pink or bluish next to the paper: Cool Tone.
Hair Colors That Complement Each Skin Tone
For Cool Tone:
- Ash Blonde: Colors with blue or purple undertones.
- Platinum Blonde: A cool, silver blonde.
- Ash Brown: A cool brown with minimal red undertones.
- Cool Black: A blue-toned black
- Blue-based Colors: Blue-black or blue-based red.
For Warm Tone:
- Golden Blonde: Colors with yellow or orange tones.
- Caramel Brown: A warm, rich brown.
- Copper Red: An orange-tinged red.
- Honey Brown: A soft, golden brown.
- Warm Black: A black with red undertones.
For Neutral Tone:
*Neutral Tone clients will have the most variety to select from, among them the following are my top recommendations:
- Beige Blonde: A balanced mix of warmth and coolness.
- Chocolate Brown: A medium brown.
- Natural Black: A neutral black.
Personal Color Selection
Personal Colors are generally classified into four seasons: “Spring,” “Summer,” “Autumn,” and “Winter.” Each season has specific color characteristics.
Spring Type
- Characteristics: Bright and warm colors suit this type.
- Skin: Light, warm peach or ivory tones.
- Eyes: Light brown or green.
- Hair: Light brown to golden blonde.
Summer Type
- Characteristics: Soft and cool colors suit this type.
- Skin: Light with pink undertones.
- Eyes: Blue-gray or green.
- Hair: Light ash blonde or soft brown.
Autumn Type
- Characteristics: Rich and warm colors suit this type.
- Skin: Warm beige or golden undertones.
- Eyes: Deep brown or hazel.
- Hair: Deep brown to rich blonde.
Winter Type
- Characteristics: Sharp and cool colors suit this type.
- Skin: Cool pink or olive tones
- Eyes: Dark brown or blue.
- Hair: Deep black or blue-black.
Recommended Hair Colors by Personal Color
For Spring Type:
- Golden Blonde: Enhances the warmth of the skin.
- Light Caramel: A bright and rich tone.
- Strawberry Blonde: A reddish blonde that brightens the complexion.
For Summer Type:
- Ash Blonde: A cool, soft tone.
- Light Brown: A soft, natural brown.
- Platinum Blonde: Highlights skin clarity
For Autumn Type:
- Copper Brown: A warm, reddish-brown.
- Dark Golden Brown: A rich, deep tone.
- Mahogany Brown: A deep, reddish-brown that highlights golden undertones.
For Winter Type:
- Blue-Black: Provides a cool and sharp impression.
- Deep Espresso: A deep, cool brown.
- Ice Blue: An extremely cool and unique tone.
- Lifestyle Factors
Considering the client’s lifestyle is important as well. For instance, if vibrant colors are not allowed at work, choose natural tones. Also, consider how much time the client can spend on hair maintenance. Colors requiring frequent touch-ups may not be suitable for busy individuals.
- Hair Condition
It is also key to factor in the level of hair damage. Frequent bleaching can damage hair, so for those with unhealthy hair, suggest low-damage coloring options. Additionally, advise and share methods of hair care to minimize damage.
- Trends and Individuality
While referencing current trends, suggest colors that enhance the client’s individuality. For example, inner colors that are subtle in an office setting but can be seen under natural light or at certain angles are quite popular.
- Color Test
For peace of mind, you can always test the color on a patch of hair beforehand. This allows the client and the stylist to see how the color will look, and build confidence in trying a new shade.
- Other Factors to Consider
- Respect Client Preferences: Listen attentively to the client’s wishes and make sure their preferred color suits their skin tone.
- Start with Small Changes: When seeking bold changes, start with small adjustments and observe the results.
- Factor Makeup Style: If the client regularly wears makeup, consider how the hair color will harmonize with their makeup.
By following these guidelines, you can select the most suitable color for your clients.