We are going from giving movement through cutting to utilizing perms to give movement to the hair.

There are several purposes for a perm, one of which is to control the direction of the hair. Some examples are applying a perm at the root gives volume, at midshaft adds flexibility, at the ends gives the hair curvature and bounce, and any number of blending all of these applications for a variation of directional control. 

The most crucial element to enable you to manipulate a perm freely is, essentially, the cut. Along with formula selection, rod selection, leave-in time, and temperature, the quality of the cut will ultimately determine whether you can execute a long-lasting perm without compromising the integrity of the hair. 

Once in a while we get asked, “I grew my hair out just so I can get a perm. Can you please do just the perm, without cutting?”

The answer is always, “No.”

A perm is simply a means to achieve a certain hairstyle. A cut and a perm always go hand in hand. Even if the client had recently received a haircut, a fresh cut will still be made according to the new style.

So, what principles can be applied to control a perm?

First, the rods for a perm are typically cylindrical tube shapes. From there, the hair is wrapped around the rods and a solution is applied to make a perm.

※We will go into more detail on the principles of perming solution and application later on. 

Today, I will explain how to cut the hair in a way that allows you to control the shape when you apply a perm. Various adjustments factor into how you control the shape by adjusting the curling method, solution, rod shape, heat application, and the angle at which the hair is gathered. However, the more these conditions overlap, the more complex they become, so by simplifying the conditions and creating diversity, you are able to create designs intentionally rather than by chance.

What changes take place depending on the cut, when the conditions of the rod and solution stay the same?
When a perm is applied to hair that is one length, you get a uniform wave throughout, as pictured below.

If the ends were to be thinned out, but the other conditions remained the same, you would have a stronger curl at the ends of the hair.

By varying the cut under similar conditions, you can create the desired movement in any area you want to add volume, curves, or swing.

An advantage of using this method of simplifying the curling method and adding movement through cutting is that the end result is a style that holds up even after growing out. This allows the client to enjoy their style even more by cutting it again after their hair has grown. 

The conditions for the degree of damage for each section of the hair are basically the same, making it easy to calculate the conditions for the next perm, and it is ultimately less damaging than other methods.

We will talk about the mechanism of perms in the next article.